These days in Verona the Vinitaly of substance opened compared to a recent past where it seemed it was sufficient a magic formula and a small cask to make a great wine. Today “the great wine” seems to be the biodynamic one, that indeed strikes because after the inebriation of so much baroque (euphemism used to talk about the nauseating wood sensation), someone felt the perfumes of the territory, so as to indicate them as the “real wines”. What is the “real wine”? It is the wine that we drink. Like La Fortana, that is a wine-not wine, for his moderate alcohol content, that is drunk with intense pleasure in the Po Valley where the Culatello was born.
Massimo Spigaroli, the consultant-pork butcher of Charles the Prince of Wales, in its Corte Pallavicina in Polesine Parmense fulfilled a dream: to do the same job as his parents, the hosts that practiced the philosophy of food miles before anyone else. He cooks everything that he breeds and grows, and his 37-month Black Pig “culatello” match the wines he produces perfectly. In Vinitaly he will cook at the “pranzo d’Autore”, like if he was in that court in the flood bed of the river Po, the court that belonged to Giuseppe Verdi, where you can feel the fragrance of the Fortanella, a forgotten wine that his grandfather Carlo had obtained from very sweet grapes.
Six years ago Luciano and Massimo resumed the cultivation of this grapes with four hectares in the locality of Motta, and from this rare grapes you have three sparkling and cool wines: the Fortanella, the Tamburen, which is a rosé produced by the “Charmat method” and a fantastic brut produced by the Classical method with Fortanella grapes vinified as white wine, the Strologo, which I liked the most. It has a light pink colour, but it is also rich in spices. In the future they will propose “La Rosa Gran riserva di Corte”, a fortana classical method that- they declare on the label – is made with an “ancestral fermentation”. The Guinea fowl covered in culatello cooked in the clay of the river Po matches with the Rosso del Motto, a blend of lambrusco, fortana and fortanella grapes, for good and enjoyable drinks like only in the Po Valley can do!
ANTICA CORTE PALLAVICINA AZ. AGR. SPIGAROLI
POLESINE PARMENSE (PR)
VIA MOTTA NUOVA, 6
TEL. +39052496136
A BOTTLE OF FORTANELLA 2009: EURO 8
http://www3.lastampa.it/cucina/sezioni/in-cantina/articolo/lstp/181982/